920. - Jessica Koslow
Jessica Koslow is the chef and owner of Sqirl, a popular restaurant in Los Angeles. We chat with her from her home in Pasadena about a London punch-up, what to do with a restaurant bathroom, Atlanta strip clubs, which actor’s sourdough starter they use at the restaurant, her new dinner menu, a dish lightly influenced by Chris himself, clientele exclusion, what to do about the burger situation, Sysco fries and quinoa onion rings, ramp season approaching, and we workshop a How Long Gone jam collaboration. instagram.com/sqirlla instagram.com/prosciuttosnacks twitter.com/donetodeath twitter.com/themjeans howlonggone.com Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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Speaker A: All right, uh, this episode of How Long Gone is brought to you by Stateside with Kai and Carter, a new podcast from The Guardian. And they are using this podcast to slow down the news and wrestle with the questions that we all have about what's happening in the world. And they do it 3 times a week. Jason, does that sound familiar to you? Speaker B: We don't really talk about, you know, a lot of international global news items and climates and cultures and sports and things like that. We do talk about fashion and wellness, but for everything else, Kai and Carter are a great place.
Speaker A: All right, so who couldn't use more news? Listen wherever you get your podcasts or watch on YouTube. All my Dade County stand up. How long? Speaker B: Broward, Zao. Speaker A: We're doing this one for Dade. You already know, Jason. Speaker B: Always for the ladies. Always for the Dades. Speaker A: I am, it's Chris Black. I am in London. It is still sunny. People are acting crazy. Almost got into an altercation yesterday on the Lime, Jason. Speaker B: On the Lime scooter? Speaker A: Yeah, a guy lunged at my face, like with his fist.
Speaker B: That's called a punch in America. Speaker A: Yeah, but he missed, little bitch. He was wearing a mesh hat too, so he deserved it. Speaker B: Okay, so a guy with a mesh hat, you were just Lime bicycle or scooter? Speaker A: Well, no, I had turned, no, on the bicycle. I was, for one second, going the wrong way as I was trying to cross the street, you know, through traffic. Speaker B: Okay, so a guy with a mesh hat, you were just Lime bicycle or scooter? Speaker A: Well, no, I had turned, no, on the bicycle.
I was, for one second, going the wrong way as I was trying to cross the street, you know, through traffic. Speaker B: Oh, okay. Speaker A: And he, he called me a cunt and I was like, bro, I'm clear. I'm trying to— I'm like, this wasn't the plan. I'm obviously trying to get out of the way. Get out of the way. I don't want to go. Speaker B: This is an evasive maneuver. Speaker A: Yeah, I know the rules of the road. And he called me a cunt and then lunged at me with his phone, like his fist balled up, but his phone was in his hand.
Speaker B: Weird. Speaker A: And then I told him I'd kill him, my usual kind of go-to. And he did speed off on his bike. I sped off on my bike and we went on our merry ways. But I was stunned. I was just like, bro, I'm not— I don't know. I think you can tell when someone's going the wrong way on purpose and when someone has the right intention of trying to cross the road. I think he chose to believe what he wanted to believe. Speaker B: But the fun part for me is me, a person who famously has lived life on two wheels for decades now, The amount of times I've intentionally— Speaker A: Yes.
Speaker B: You know, like a knobhead, like an absolute bellend, you know, purposefully rode on the wrong side of the street, wrong one-way, run in 4 red lights, 4 stop signs. Not a single person has ever tried to punch me for doing that. Is it because I look kind of like Brollick and more intimidating and you're a little more, I don't know, soft looking? Speaker A: That could be it. That could be it. I mean, that is not it, but thank you for indicating that. That could be it. The answer is clear.
No, I think it was— I think maybe my guess is, first of all, we were both on Limes, therefore negating— neither of us is a real cyclist. That's the thing. If a real cyclist did that to me, I'd be like, I deserve that. I'm sorry, sir, you have $10,000 worth of gear on. I don't— you're right, I'm wrong. You know what I mean? Speaker B: Two guys on Limes, it's just like, what are we even doing here? Speaker A: Yeah, it was a guy on a Lime bike with a high crown mesh hat and some sort of vest on who clearly had maybe a few too many pints at lunch in the afternoon sun.
Speaker B: Mm-hmm. Speaker A: And, and he chose to take it out on me. And I was, you know, I was, I wasn't happy myself with myself for losing my temper, but I was happy for myself for having the reflexes to, to kind of, you know, scoot back to Bob and weave when he was coming at me with his little wussy left. Speaker B: It's, I just like the idea of a, of a real super citizen. Maybe they don't make 'em like that in America because, you know, just I've, I've, people have wanted to, to hit you and I for many reasons over the years.
Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker B: But for, for, for simply disobeying a, a sort of, of, you know, inoffensive traffic regulation, this person's civic duty and super citizenry are unprecedented. Speaker A: I think it might have been fueled by Stella or Guinness, but regardless, he's getting into the pints then. He was getting into the fucking pints. Speaker B: Yeah, I mean, after my fourth Peroni and a fucking wee bit of bag and 4 Parliament Lights, the last thing I want to start doing is policing laws and road regulations. Speaker A: I think it might have been fueled by Stella or Guinness, but regardless, he's getting into the pints then.
He was getting into the fucking pints. Speaker B: Yeah, I mean, after my fourth Peroni and a fucking wee bit of bag and 4 Parliament Lights, the last thing I want to start doing is policing laws and road regulations. Speaker A: Yeah, I'm only mad if You're going the wrong way if you're impeding my drug dealer from making a delivery. Speaker B: I become the one who litters, not the one who tells on litterers. Speaker A: It was a strange interaction. It didn't look at— I try not to let it throw my day off and I was able to recover, but I just, you know, I was, I'm not used to that kind of violence being hurled at me when I'm going along my merry way.
Speaker B: You kind of should be. Just the amount of time I've spent with you and the amount of altercations you get into versus me. Speaker A: You've seen at least 3 or— well, yeah, you don't get mad really because I think you're so confusingly passive-aggressive to people that they don't even know what you're saying by the end of it, which is an amazing method. And I think it diffuses situations quite well. Speaker B: Your methods are more clear with the, I will kill you. Speaker A: Is that your go-to?
My methods are more clear, but I thought— I also think it's clear that I'm a total pussy who could get his jaw rocked at any moment. No, no, no. But I guess I'm not making that clear. I guess I'm not making that clear. Speaker B: No, you don't have a weak jaw. Speaker A: I mean, no, no, I don't take it right. Speaker B: I mean, you don't have an iron neck like I do, but I mean, you're no, you're not pushover. Speaker A: I don't give, I don't give, I don't give iron neck the way you do, that's for sure.
Uh, that is, that is for absolutely, uh, yeah. But it's been, it's been a wonderful trip. The weather has been really nice, um, and it makes such a huge difference to be able to lime in peace with the, with the sun beating down, you know. Speaker B: No, you don't have a weak jaw. Speaker A: I mean, no, no, I don't take it right. Speaker B: I mean, you don't have an iron neck like I do, but I mean, you're no, you're not pushover. Speaker A: I don't give, I don't give, I don't give iron neck the way you do, that's for sure.
Uh, that is, that is for absolutely, uh, yeah. But it's been, it's been a wonderful trip. The weather has been really nice, um, and it makes such a huge difference to be able to lime in peace with the, with the sun beating down, you know. Speaker B: Well, I'm experiencing the same thing. The sun is beating down here at 105 degrees Fahrenheit. So we be Yeah, I don't know. What is that, 40 Celsius? Speaker A: Couldn't tell you. Speaker B: But yeah, it's too— and as I said earlier, me being a lover of cycling, it is straight up too hot to ride your bike here.
When it's 105, you know, the heat lines coming off that asphalt. Speaker A: Oh yeah, I love the heat lines. Speaker B: I mean, yeah, I do, but it's just like, you know, it's not an environment that's enjoyable, which is good for you and I, early risers, early grustlers. you know, you wake up at 6:30 to go over to the coffee shop and you're already getting the— the streets are alive and buzzing. You know, there's 20 people in line. Everyone's been up for hours. Speaker A: Well, in a geriatric community, the wake-up time is 3 to 4 hours earlier than dense urban areas, I would say.
No, so that it's— and it is inspiring. It is inspiring. But I'm— I once, I remember being Palm Springs once and going for a run and that sort of heat thinking I was, able to handle it, and I was, um, humbled by God very, very, very quickly. Good, good. Because it feels like you're breathing in an oven, you know? It's not— it's, it's not— it's really not fun. It's really— I know what you mean. Speaker B: Like, the more you breathe, the, the worse it gets. You're feeding coal into the oven.
Speaker A: I'm dumping coal into my, into my fucking pizza oven. Speaker B: You're rolling coal, brother. Speaker A: I'm rolling coal, brother. Speaker B: You feel like, um, you feel like Lil Baby fully clothed wearing a New Era fitted in the sauna, don't you? Speaker A: Let Baby cook, man. He looks like them jeans on our new Magna. Like, literally. Speaker B: Let Baby cook at 275 for 4.5 hours. Make sure to flip it halfway through. Speaker A: It's crazy that our little— Speaker B: Carolyn liked that one. She don't even know what we're talking about.
Speaker A: Our little Magna film came out yesterday, and then just a day later, we see Lil Baby in the sauna with his clothes on like them jeans. I don't— Speaker B: I just think that's funny. Speaker A: I just think that's kind of funny. And I'm also, I'm from ATL. He's been, you know, he's paying attention to this shit. You know, he listens. Speaker B: You know, imitation is the highest form of flattery. I didn't think it was going to come out of Lil Baby's camp so quickly. But, you know, a dub is a dub, as they say in the marketing game, right?
Speaker A: A dub is a dub. A dub is really a dub. Speaker B: And shout out to our friends and family over at Magna. We, we create— I don't know how long it was, it's 6 months ago. I sent him a DM, said, we got to, we got to do a flavor that's blue. And then they said, say less. How Long Gone podcast. And, you know, we developed it. Our friend Sam Makin, Spent a day at the house filming content, you know, we got some stuff rolling out. But it is a delicious flavor of blue, mystical and refreshing.
And, you know, I got blue in my cup right now. I poured it into— there's a water company called Lunin. Yeah, the loon, the bird. It's a nice glass bottle, purified, third-party verified, BPA-free water. So I got my— Speaker A: thank you for reading that straight off the bottle. Speaker B: It is a sip A sip above. Speaker A: I agree. I agree. Speaker B: Well, I was, I was just talking to, um, Stephen Phillips Horse. He was, we were talking about microplastics. And so I just wanted to brag and show off the fact that I'm drinking water out of a glass bottle.
I'm drinking my Aviat out of plastic while I'm posting photos of my macroplastic bottle. Speaker A: I don't fucking, macroplastics are like my data. Take it. I don't give a fuck. Give it to me. I don't care. Speaker B: Yeah. He was, he was saying. What did he say? Because there's like a Netflix doc about microplastics and he said it's the dicks are getting smaller. And he also said it's all turning us into fuck. But I'll bleep that part out because that's just for your ears. And I said the microplastics are making my dick smaller, but it's making my dick better.
Something to think about. Speaker A: There's something to think about there. Speaker B: Is that right, KK? Speaker A: I don't think it can all be bad. Speaker B: She says no. Wow. Speaker A: I don't think it can all be bad. No, you ain't given good dick in years. Speaker B: No, bro. It's been minutes. Simply a minute. No, bro. Speaker A: That's crazy. Don't say that. Um, no, I'm ready to come home. I gotta be honest. I've, I've had a great, you know, I went to the River Cafe.
I went to a new place last night called Dover Street Counter that I thought you would have actually quite liked. Speaker B: Is that affiliated with the Market of Dover Street? Speaker A: No, it's a guy that has 3 other restaurants that I've been to, but this one's like a, it, it's counter, almost counter style, like, um, Penny, but more the, the hamburger. Conrad got the hamburger. I, I got, um, a, a piece of fish, but it was delicious. And just, I, I kind of like the counter thing. If it's you and one person, I've kind of come around.
I used to not like that, but I think I like it now. I've come around on it. Speaker A: No, it's a guy that has 3 other restaurants that I've been to, but this one's like a, it, it's counter, almost counter style, like, um, Penny, but more the, the hamburger. Conrad got the hamburger. I, I got, um, a, a piece of fish, but it was delicious. And just, I, I kind of like the counter thing. If it's you and one person, I've kind of come around. I used to not like that, but I think I like it now.
I've come around on it. Speaker B: Yeah. Carolyn and I will often go for a counter situation in a restaurant just because typically the bartender service is much less schmoozy and have you dined with us before and blah blah blah. It's just kind of like a chiller who's like, the salad's really good, the tartar is really good, and the burger's really good. Speaker A: But it's not like a bar. But the difference, I feel like, I guess the difference is it's not like a bar. I mean, it is technically a bar, but it's like most of the seating is a counter in the restaurant.
Speaker B: Got it. Got it. It's like a, it's a luncheonette. A dinette. Speaker A: Yeah. It's a luncheonette except it's, you know, dark as hell and it's sexy and people are drunk, you know? So it's a little, a little less luncheonette. Speaker B: Okay. A little date night with Connie. Speaker A: Little date night with Big Con. Speaker B: Yeah. Get the strap out. Speaker A: Yeah. I was like, season 5, bro. Am I getting fucked in the ass? How's this gonna work? All right. We have a guest today.
Speaker B: There's some good dick under these Drake trousers, you feel me? Speaker A: There's some good dick under the Hanover jeans. Uh, Jessica Koslow is joining us. Uh, she is the, the genius mind and hands behind Squirrel, Los Angeles's most beloved restaurant that has recently introduced dinner. Um, she did leave us on read when I tried to come in. Um, but that's an issue. That's an issue we'll get into now. Jason's been there several times, so he can attest to the quality. Um, but let's, uh, let's give her a ring and get into it.
Every time I go to the doctor, I walk out of that bitch feeling dumb. I got no real info. This guy in a white coat just say, you're fine, you know, drink more water. Speaker A: There's some good dick under the Hanover jeans. Uh, Jessica Koslow is joining us. Uh, she is the, the genius mind and hands behind Squirrel, Los Angeles's most beloved restaurant that has recently introduced dinner. Um, she did leave us on read when I tried to come in. Um, but that's an issue. That's an issue we'll get into now.
Jason's been there several times, so he can attest to the quality. Um, but let's, uh, let's give her a ring and get into it. Every time I go to the doctor, I walk out of that bitch feeling dumb. I got no real info. This guy in a white coat just say, you're fine, you know, drink more water. Speaker B: He knows how to charge my copay. Speaker A: Exactly. Speaker B: That's about it. Speaker A: As if I could drink more water, doctor. I, I don't get data. I don't get a game plan.
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Superpower is more comprehensive and advanced system out there. Speaker B: Make this year the year we all stop guessing about our health with Superpower. For a limited time, How Long Gone listeners get $20 off to unlock their new health intelligence. Head over to com and use the code HOWLONG for $20 off your membership. That is code HOWLONG, and after you sign up, they'll ask how you heard about Superpower. Do us a favor if you could and tell them How Long Gone sent you, and that'll just support us. Thanks. Speaker B: Make this year the year we all stop guessing about our health with Superpower.
For a limited time, How Long Gone listeners get $20 off to unlock their new health intelligence. Head over to com and use the code HOWLONG for $20 off your membership. That is code HOWLONG, and after you sign up, they'll ask how you heard about Superpower. Do us a favor if you could and tell them How Long Gone sent you, and that'll just support us. Thanks. Speaker A: This episode of How Long Gone is brought to you by a new podcast from The Guardian, Stateside with Kai and Carter. This is covering a lot of our bases, Jason.
It's, uh, it's trying to slow down the news and wrestle with the questions we all have about what's happening in the world. And I know you particularly have quite a lot of questions. Speaker B: A lot of questions. But how often? Because we do this podcast 3 times a week, and that's a sweet spot. How many times do they do? Speaker A: 3 times a week. And I, I have a feeling, just based on the platform and these talking points, that they're maybe going to be covering different stuff than we do.
That's just a guess. Speaker B: The Guardian is not some billionaire-owned platform. They're not afraid to say what they want to say, brother. Yeah. Speaker A: Rupert ain't sniffing around in what journalists Kai Wright and Carter Sherman are up to over there at Stateside. But yeah, listen wherever you get your podcasts. You can watch on YouTube. It's 3 times a week. And who couldn't use more news, you know, especially when it's not, you know, from here, let's say. Give it a listen. Give it a listen. This episode of How Long Gone is brought to you by our best friends at BetterHelp.
Jason, we're, we're deep into May, which is, uh, Mental Health Awareness Month. And this is just a reminder that whatever you're going through, you don't have to go through it alone. Life is a damn journey. Some days feel good and others feel overwhelming. Whatever's keeping you up at night, it's easy to feel like you have to figure it all out on your own. But the truth is no one has all the answers. Well, and no journey should be alone. Having someone with you to listen, to understand, and to support you can really make all the difference.
Speaker B: I agree, Chris. And sometimes, you know, it's nice to be talking to somebody even if they're not even listening, even if you don't even get to be in the same room with them, because what you're doing is you're admitting these things to yourself. And that's the most— that's the most rewarding thing you can do sometimes. So you can have a great little therapy sesh with your perfect therapist at BetterHelp. Choosing between over 30,000 people so you can get the right one just for you. Over 6 million people globally are using it.
And, you know, have some breakthroughs. Go on that walk after your BetterHelp sesh, you know, whatever it might be. Get a nice little lunch all for yourself, maybe a non-alcoholic kombucha, and just think and be like, damn, I really am him. You don't have to be on this journey alone. Find support and have somebody with you in therapy. Sign up and get 10% off at com/howlong. Speaker A: That is better. Speaker B: com/howlong. Speaker C: What's up, y'all? Speaker A: What's up, y'all? Um, well, this is— is this your house?
This looks really nice. Speaker C: This is my house. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Speaker A: Damn, hell yeah. Speaker C: Been here, I think, on ecstasy, which— in front of children. Speaker A: So, wow, the house— the house that J— the house that Jam built allows drugs. Speaker B: That's good to know. Look, look, my brother was like, yo, Fourth of July party at Jessica's house. And I'm like, cool, I'm going to do a little bit of— I'll do, you know, a quarter of a blue Punisher skull. Check out the Rose Bowl fireworks.
And that was when, Chris, we were talking about how they do it with drones now instead. Speaker B: That's good to know. Look, look, my brother was like, yo, Fourth of July party at Jessica's house. And I'm like, cool, I'm going to do a little bit of— I'll do, you know, a quarter of a blue Punisher skull. Check out the Rose Bowl fireworks. And that was when, Chris, we were talking about how they do it with drones now instead. Speaker A: Oh, yeah. Speaker B: We were kind of complaining about how fireworks need to be made great again.
Speaker C: Yeah. And all the children were kind of clapping and all the parents were booing. It was very unique. Speaker B: Well, now, by the end of it, I remember a toddler— not a toddler, maybe a 5-year-old— was like, She didn't say like, Mommy, these drone fireworks are gay in comparison, but she was just kind of like, oh, like last year it was like boom and bang and it was a thing. Speaker A: She was spiritually disappointed with the lack of— is that— did we talk about— is that because of Big Dog?
Is that who stopped the fight? You know, is that who— Speaker B: Big Dog came in? The nation of dogs that we live with in America pushing back. Speaker A: Yeah, not Big Dog like what I would call you when I greet you. I mean, actual dogs. Speaker B: I think I'll let you speak, Jessica, but I think the The problem is marketing and branding because you can't take a firework and have it spell out logos of corporate sponsorships but you can with drones. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: So did you pony up for The Squirrel logo to be blasted over the Rose Bowl or is this separate?
Speaker C: Yeah, yeah. I thought about it maybe next year. Speaker B: Imagine if you put The Squirrel logo up on the whole canyon, you just hear boo! Just faint booing. Speaker C: Oh, that was gonna— I hope not. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: So did you pony up for The Squirrel logo to be blasted over the Rose Bowl or is this separate? Speaker C: Yeah, yeah. I thought about it maybe next year. Speaker B: Imagine if you put The Squirrel logo up on the whole canyon, you just hear boo!
Just faint booing. Speaker C: Oh, that was gonna— I hope not. Speaker B: The last time I ordered a pesto bowl they forgot my poached egg. Speaker C: Boo-boo! Speaker A: That's really funny. All right. So this house— so this is in the general Pasadena area. Speaker C: It is. Yeah, it's in Pasadena. And I used to live 5 minutes from the restaurant. And in 2022, we moved about 5 minutes from my husband's job. And, you know, his life got exponentially better with the commute. And mine— now I listen to a lot of your podcasts.
Speaker A: Sure. It works for us. You know, Jessica, it's funny you say that because any small business owner that I know, especially restaurants, or I would say like clothing stores, they've always said to me, you kind of gotta live within 5 to 10 minutes. Yeah. You kind of gotta be close cuz if something goes wrong or if you, you gotta pop in and in and out, blah, blah, blah. Now I imagine your husband is in a different industry and doesn't need to pop in and out. Is that safe to say?
Speaker C: That is, that is safe to say. Yeah. He's, he, he's, he's a 9-to-5er. Speaker A: Isn't that interesting? Okay. Speaker C: So, but I love, that's love, you know, that's, that's how it goes. Speaker B: Yeah. But, but also, you know, to be fair, you are living in an area that is, an idyllic, serene, beautiful view of the city. It's not like you had to relocate to a shitty part. Speaker A: The Arts District. Speaker B: Yeah, because living 5 minutes from your restaurant would be a nightmare. It's in an awful neighborhood.
I would never want to go there. Speaker A: The Arts District. Speaker B: Yeah, because living 5 minutes from your restaurant would be a nightmare. It's in an awful neighborhood. I would never want to go there. Speaker C: Stop it. It's in a great— It's great. It's all good. Speaker B: I've been 3 times since you've had dinner, so that's obviously a lie, but I'm up in there all the time. Speaker A: Okay, but Pasadena, to me, as beautiful as it is, it does seem incredibly sleepy and removed. Is that what you were looking for?
Speaker C: Yeah, I, you know, spending 15 years just being 5 minutes away and having— and, you know, I don't have any partners. It's just me. I needed a little bit of reprieve. Yeah. And I needed to figure out how to not have me be the one to problem solve everything. And so it was, it was a choice. And honestly, like, I miss I miss being able to walk to work. I miss being able to have like a neighborhood that I can walk to, to, to do things. But I really needed a little bit of peace and yeah, yeah.
It, in, in some ways it helps. Speaker B: If the toilet's clogged, you're not able to bop down in between, you know, and get in there before you go and not come to finish your day. Speaker A: Y'all rest, y'all restaurant people are crazy. That shit is gross, man. I don't know how you do it. I swear to God. I swear to God. What the way that people act. Speaker B: Yeah. Restaurants are gross. Speaker A: I go to restaurants every night. Literally, I go to restaurants more. I might go to restaurants more than anybody besides you on this, on this Zoom, Jessica.
And I go to restaurants every night and they're so clean. And I think about somebody had to do this. And I know that these disgusting customers don't leave it this way. They don't, they don't treat this like their home. They treat it like a public bathroom. Yeah. Speaker A: I go to restaurants every night. Literally, I go to restaurants more. I might go to restaurants more than anybody besides you on this, on this Zoom, Jessica. And I go to restaurants every night and they're so clean. And I think about somebody had to do this.
And I know that these disgusting customers don't leave it this way. They don't, they don't treat this like their home. They treat it like a public bathroom. Yeah. Speaker C: Especially when you're a coffee shop in the morning, there is this— Speaker A: Oh, hell no. Oh, hell no. Speaker C: We are a cafe during the day. We sell and serve coffee. The, The idea is we are also your bathroom. Speaker B: Oh, that should not— I mean, but do you remember when you were watching the Curb Your Enthusiasm episode where he was like, I'm opening Larry's coffee shop, Latte Larry's, no toilets, urinals only.
And if I owned a Squirrel AM, I would watch that and say, that's genius. It is genius. I don't want anyone dumping in my place of business. Speaker A: I didn't think about— I mean, I didn't think about the problems with running a restaurant seem never-ending, but I guess there's glory on the other side. Once you finally launch Dinner, things change. Speaker C: Maybe. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Speaker B: No, it's true. I mean, well, I was just there. What was that, 2 nights ago? You were, you know, and I'm dining shoulder to shoulder with Phoebe Bridgers, Kumail Nanjiani, you know, and it was also St.
Patrick's Day. So you get these drunk motherfuckers pulling up in the Waymo. It's like, You know, 6:00 PM, sunny, everyone's kind of faded. It was al dente bistro dining, al fresco. It was— summer is already here at Squirrel. I loved it. Speaker C: Yeah, it feels really, it feels really good. 3 weeks in and just coming up and seeing how it feels. I'm not even talking about the food. I'm just talking about like how it feels to be outside. You know, in— sorry, Chris, you're in New York right now? Speaker A: No, I'm in London and it's beautiful.
It's 65 degrees right now. Speaker C: Oh, perfect. Oh, perfect. So you could be sitting outside too. Speaker A: I had some calls with my colleagues earlier today though, and they were talking about how it just won't stop in New York. And there's— there was like, it's, it's debilitating. And, you know, it's, it's really keeping them down. I could see it in his eyes. Yeah. Speaker C: Do you live in London? Speaker A: No, no, I wish. I'm just here for a couple days and I, I am able to podcast.
Speaker C: Did Claridge's give you a room? Speaker A: They did. I was at River Cafe this week and I was telling that story to the people I was with and they were just like— Speaker C: Like, she's a legend. The fact that she can just do that. Speaker A: But the way that she said it also was just sort of like, oh, isn't it funny that— And I'm like, I couldn't do this. Like, I've had to record a podcast in like a car before for this exact reason. Like, you can't.
Speaker B: Yeah. But Ruthie is truly in a level of her own. Obviously comparing her to us, Not even, you know, no contest, but like, like if Nancy Silverton went over to the Chateau Marmont and said, hey, let me get a suite. I got to record some media. They'd be like, get out of here, lady. But like Ruthie Rogers, they're like, presidential suite. Come on in. You're basically royalty. Speaker A: Well, it is. Yeah. I mean, it's no Max and Helen's, but you know, sort of deserved. There's no hot chocolate, but you know, we can do what we can.
Speaker A: Well, it is. Yeah. I mean, it's no Max and Helen's, but you know, sort of deserved. There's no hot chocolate, but you know, we can do what we can. Speaker B: Nancy Silverton owns a multi-million hundred. You know, she's, she's more famous than Ruthie. Makes more money than Ruthie. She doesn't come from a royalty lineage. She's not married into the family the way Ruthie is, but still, you know, I don't, I don't think there— Speaker A: I, I just don't think you can— I appreciate Ruthie's restraint and having one restaurant.
Jessica, you may know something about this. I feel like it just feels like you— I've never met someone who can stop at just one, no matter how much money it makes. They can't help themselves. Speaker C: Did she ever try to open another one? Speaker A: No, I was told that she's being heavily courted in the Middle East but won't pull the trigger. Speaker C: So I think there, I think there is something to that restraint, you know. Like, I, I opened a restaurant like right before COVID in a hotel and— Speaker A: oh wait, I remember that in Santa Monica.
Speaker C: In Santa Monica. Speaker B: Sometimes restaurant number 2 tells you no instead of you telling restaurant number 2 no. Speaker C: Yeah. And all— and sometimes it's just, it's about the Mm-hmm. You know, is the collaboration right? Is the connection right? Speaker B: Is, is the global pandemic timing on the right timeline? Speaker A: You know, well, with, with the— I mean, we talk about this a little bit on the show, but I think people would probably like to know that those— the way those deals work is they're pretty attractive for you financially to come in and be paid as the operator or whatever.
Speaker A: You know, well, with, with the— I mean, we talk about this a little bit on the show, but I think people would probably like to know that those— the way those deals work is they're pretty attractive for you financially to come in and be paid as the operator or whatever. Speaker C: However the deal works, they're, they're management deals. And you kind of give away your kind of poetic and creative license in a way, you know? Like, all of a sudden, the music is the same music that's in the hotel.
Like, you're, you're not really able to kind of own the tone. And that, for me, what I learned is, like, I, I don't operate that way. Like, I really need to be able to be a creative part in the entire decision-making, and that's when my work is the best work. And so I think that's also what stopped me, you know? Like, we been approached by tons and tons of people wanting to either collaborate or take over their, their whole, their restaurant operations and put in squirrels. Speaker A: And yeah, you could be, you could be egg slut.
You fucked up. Speaker C: I mean, I know I could have been in Vegas. I could be in the Venetian right now. Speaker B: I'll be at the Contre Mare and the Fontainebleau Las Vegas in just a couple short weeks. Speaker C: That's— Speaker A: yeah, because I do think of— I, I do think about this a lot though, how that there are some things that I go to Like I was talking to the quarter sheet, I was like, this quarter sheets could work anywhere in the world. Like Squirrel could work anywhere in the world.
Like Squirrel could be in Dallas, Squirrel could be in Atlanta, Squirrel could be in Chicago. Speaker C: Korea, Tokyo. Speaker B: Riyadh. Speaker A: All of that would work. All of that would work. But it's like, yeah, it's a whole, you can't be two places at once. So how much can you really? Speaker C: Korea, Tokyo. Speaker B: Riyadh. Speaker A: All of that would work. All of that would work. But it's like, yeah, it's a whole, you can't be two places at once. So how much can you really? Speaker B: But Squirrel in Atlanta, I know Jessica, you spent some time there and I want to get into that next, but you know.
Speaker A: I forgot you worked there. Speaker C: Yeah, I thought you knew that and you were just kind of like. Speaker A: You worked at Bacchanalia, right? Mm-hmm. Atlanta's first nice restaurant. Speaker C: First nice restaurant. What about now? Speaker B: Well, I was going to say, you put a squirrel restaurant somewhere in Appalachia, they're going to be upset that there's no squirrel on the menu. Speaker A: Don't do that to us, bro. This ain't where you're from. This ain't West Virginia. Speaker B: We have a global audience. It's close enough.
Speaker C: Okay. That's the joke that I get all the time. Like, is there squirrel on the menu? No, there's not. Speaker B: Right. Speaker A: Right. Speaker B: Oh, I never even thought about that. That's like when people ask me if I play basketball or what the weather's like up here. And then you say, fuck you. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Every time. Speaker C: In your mind. Speaker A: When you, all right, so when you worked at Bacchanalia, which tell people what Bacchanalia is. Bacchanalia really was one of the first restaurants.
Speaker B: You were there in 2005, which means there's a good chance you served Chris one of his Benzo bowls. Did I? Speaker C: What is that? Speaker B: It's like a bento bowl made out of Xanax. Speaker A: It's when I start my fast casual restaurant and all the bowls are themed around prescription drugs. Speaker B: It's when Chris just does some pills, walks down the street and says, oh, sorbet, I'll try that. Speaker A: No, Bacchanalia. Bacchanalia, I think I've eaten there once maybe in my life, but we were probably— we were at least in the same bars and clubs in 2005, if nothing else.
Speaker B: It's when Chris just does some pills, walks down the street and says, oh, sorbet, I'll try that. Speaker A: No, Bacchanalia. Bacchanalia, I think I've eaten there once maybe in my life, but we were probably— we were at least in the same bars and clubs in 2005, if nothing else. Speaker C: Were you there in 2005? Speaker A: Yeah, yeah, I was. I was at MJQ and The Local and The Righteous Room and Claremont Lounge. Wow, okay, I didn't know you were that kind of nasty chick. But yeah, I was at Claremont Lounge occasionally.
Speaker B: Jessica's a little hornier than you are, Chris. Speaker A: Jessica, I didn't know you were doing coke over a trough, but God bless. Speaker C: A different time. Speaker B: I, I've been to the Clermont Lounge. I've been to the Clermont. Speaker A: No, no, I, I'm fine with the Clermont Lounge. Speaker B: It's a fun little establishment. Speaker C: Chris, you should probably explain it. Speaker A: But the Clermont Lounge, I would say people that listen to this podcast know more about the Clermont Lounge than Bacchanalia or my benzo bowls.
But it's basically, the Clermont Lounge is a famous strip club where the strippers are gross, but it's, it's like a place where you would go, you know, they would play like— Speaker B: they're not gross. Speaker A: No, they are gross. No, they're, no, they're literally gross. Speaker B: That's the whole thing. Speaker C: Right. Speaker A: I mean, Jessica, you would agree. That's the whole point. It's sort of like a ball. Speaker C: Yeah. I think like the famous woman at the time was someone who crushed— Speaker A: Blondie would crush beer cans between her breasts.
Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: And Blondie would get hired to be brought out on stage. Like if a band was finishing their tour in Atlanta, you know, Taking Back Sunday or whatever, Dashboard Confessional would hire her to come out with Taking Back Sunday, do a little dance, everybody knows. And then, and then she goes back to work. Speaker B: I was expecting you to say something more in the hip hop realm, but Dashboard Confessional bring Big Mama. Speaker B: I was expecting you to say something more in the hip hop realm, but Dashboard Confessional bring Big Mama.
Speaker A: That's what's so interesting about the Claremont Lounge and Atlanta strip club culture. Claremont Lounge is the only one that specifically panders to like guys that wore cheap Mondays and drank PBR and listen to the Black Lips. It was not— it was the one, the one that did not have any hip-hop angle or soul or anything interesting about it. Speaker B: Kind of the, the Jumbo's Clown Room of Atlanta in some ways. But Chris is more— Chris and I are more Magic City folks. If I had to, you know, we feel out of place at the Claremont Lounge.
Speaker A: How much, how many, how much time are you spending at the strip club? That was your first thing you offered to us as far as bars. Speaker C: You were saying bars. I agreed with them. I just added that last one. Speaker A: Oh, you agree? I'm sorry, you were shaking your head so they couldn't hear you agreeing, and I, I might have missed it. Speaker C: All right, so I just thought I saw you. Speaker A: You probably did. I was a lot fatter and had glasses, but it could have been me.
Yeah, I don't tip though. It wasn't me crumbling up bills and throwing them. That was not me, I swear to God. Speaker B: I don't tip either, but I am a crumbler. I'm a, I'm a crumble and tosser. Speaker A: Come on, he rolls it, he rolls it like he's playing one-on-one. Got to get the stuff. All right. Speaker B: So you were just about to— Speaker A: Bacchanalia, you would describe Bacchanalia as a Michelin star restaurant, or is it just serious? Speaker C: It is. It is a Michelin star restaurant.
And at the time, there was also Quiniones, which was even a finer dining restaurant. And then there was Star Provisions, which was her kind of market. Speaker A: Star Provisions is the first— is the first, like, overpriced Larder Essentials place I ever visited in my life. Speaker B: Provision eating house restaurant, which— Speaker A: Star Provisions is the first— is the first, like, overpriced Larder Essentials place I ever visited in my life. Speaker B: Provision eating house restaurant, which— Speaker A: no, it's— but it's like an actual market. It's actually provisions.
Speaker C: But it was— she really and really cares about ingredients and like tchotchkes and kitchen items. And it was always fun to go. It was always full of things that I had never seen before. And so, yeah, I moved to Atlanta in 2005 and from, from C. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Oh, well, I finished grad school in C. and had been working. Speaker A: I didn't know they had grad school for cooking, but that's cool that you did. No, you know, they got dessert grad school. Speaker B: That's fucking crazy.
Sweetgreen. Sweetgreen, you. Speaker C: Sweetgreen. Yeah, Sweetgreen. And who else? There's a couple others. Speaker B: Georgetown Annex program. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Did you, so you lived in DC when there was still a Dean DeLuca in Georgetown the way God intended? Speaker C: Yeah. Yeah. It was, it was a good time. Speaker A: What did you go to grad school for, Jessica? Speaker C: It was a media theory program. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: So you were trying to go a different route and the kitchen kept pulling you back.
Speaker C: Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker C: So I, I did that route. I moved to D, I moved to Atlanta. I went to Bacchanalia and like sat at the bar, which I'm also a big fan of. And I watched that open kitchen. And honestly, the open kitchen there has like a glass wall. So you kind of— it's like, watch them dance. But I'm a pastry person. Like, that's where I'm— that's where I started. And I had this dessert, which is actually on the menu at dinner in a different format, but also in the same format.
Speaker A: What is the dessert? Speaker C: It was like a molten chocolate cake, right? Like the most simple '90s molten chocolate cake. Speaker A: Jessica, you're talking to a— that's what I want. Speaker C: Yeah, with a mint chip ice cream. Carla, the pastry chef, is still there as the pastry chef at Bacchanalia. Speaker B: Give her the Rolex. Speaker C: I know. She deserves it. She's a master. And I loved it so much, I wrote to Anne. And Anne was like— It wasn't a time where you just like wrote an email, like professing your love and asking for a job.
So she met with me and kind of laughed. And at the same time, someone had quit. And she goes, look, if you want to start tomorrow, you can start tomorrow. And it really was my first foot in the door. Um, and forever grateful because I was there for, I was there for a year. And then I ended up back there a couple of years later, helping her with Abattoir. If you were there at the time, that was another restaurant. Speaker A: Did you work somewhere else in Atlanta? Atlanta or did you move?
Speaker C: I moved to DC. I moved to New York, but in Atlanta I worked at Star Provisions. Yeah, Bacchanalia and Quinones, all in pastry. Speaker A: Oh, okay, okay. And then you moved to New York, and then I moved to New York. Got it. Speaker B: When you, when you were first starting out at Bacchanalia, what would you remember, your first like pastry creation that made it on the menu? Speaker C: I didn't have that creative liberty. No, I was, I was a pastry cook. Speaker B: You're like, I was the one who moved the flour from the bags into the plastic bins.
Speaker C: Exactly, exactly. That's what I did. I was watching some— Speaker A: I was at, I was at this There's a place in London called Corner Shop that's like at 180 The Strand that this woman Alex Eagle opened, and it's basically like a Dean DeLuca, Erewhon thing, but it's really focused on like the, the food is really good. You order and you sit down. And I was sitting down upstairs next to the pastry team, which was live, and I was like watching this guy in fucking Birkenstocks doing exactly what Jason just said.
And I'm like, damn, this job sucks, bro. But, but the, but the pastries were deli— I had a little treat and it was fucking delicious. But man, I, I don't I don't know how you— that is, I don't— it's so physical too. Like, they look tired. Speaker C: I didn't have that creative liberty. No, I was, I was a pastry cook. Speaker B: You're like, I was the one who moved the flour from the bags into the plastic bins. Speaker C: Exactly, exactly. That's what I did. I was watching some— Speaker A: I was at, I was at this There's a place in London called Corner Shop that's like at 180 The Strand that this woman Alex Eagle opened, and it's basically like a Dean DeLuca, Erewhon thing, but it's really focused on like the, the food is really good.
You order and you sit down. And I was sitting down upstairs next to the pastry team, which was live, and I was like watching this guy in fucking Birkenstocks doing exactly what Jason just said. And I'm like, damn, this job sucks, bro. But, but the, but the pastries were deli— I had a little treat and it was fucking delicious. But man, I, I don't I don't know how you— that is, I don't— it's so physical too. Like, they look tired. Speaker C: Yeah, it is hard. And actually, like, the bread production, adding that bread production layer to Squirrel, that might be even the most challenging thing because of the weight of the dough that comes out of the mixing bowl.
And that's why you, like, see Tartine, and now they have these big machines that just, like, You're like, pour the dough out. Speaker B: They got an Elon Musk robot moving 500 pounds of dough. Speaker A: It's funny, I'm going to start using, I'm going to start using that, Jessica. Every day of my life is about bread production. If you know what I'm saying. That's a new, that's a new, I'm going to use that. So you're saying Tartine's got performative bowls or you're saying they need those big ass? They do.
Speaker C: Okay. Yeah. No, no, no. Let me tell you, like they have performative bowls, but they're not performative. They need those bowls. Like they're making such a huge amount of bread every day and the amount of of, uh, it, it's a liability to be honest, to, to be making that much bread and not have those kinds of like things to, to take the bread off. Speaker C: Okay. Yeah. No, no, no. Let me tell you, like they have performative bowls, but they're not performative. They need those bowls. Like they're making such a huge amount of bread every day and the amount of of, uh, it, it's a liability to be honest, to, to be making that much bread and not have those kinds of like things to, to take the bread off.
Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker B: Yeah, sure. There's a lawsuit waiting to happen. Mm-hmm. Imagine dying because just a ton of sourdough starter just fell on your head. Speaker C: Would you be lying on the table when that happens? Speaker B: Yeah. A heavenly, don't make it horny again, Jessica. Speaker C: Come on. Speaker B: Would you be lying face up or face down when the sourdough fell on you and it was so heavy you couldn't move when the starter hit you? Speaker A: Hits you. Speaker C: Did you hear our starter story?
Speaker A: I didn't know you had a starter story. Is this like your coming out story? Speaker C: No, I— we gotta— we lost our starter in the pandemic. I think it— Speaker B: God, I cannot wait to edit this in 4 hours where I put like In the Arms of an Angel, like sad music over this. Well, we lost our starter in the pandemic. Speaker A: Yeah, wait, how do you— I'm sorry, excuse my ignorance as a person who doesn't bake. When you lose the starter, you mean you, you physically misplace, or the starter dies an untimely death?
Speaker B: You neglected so much that it dies, shrivels up and dies. Speaker C: I mean, during COVID because there was a time in which we were not open for service, we were feeding our starter. Like we weren't feeding our starter. We were doing meals for the hospitality workers. Speaker A: Yeah, wait, how do you— I'm sorry, excuse my ignorance as a person who doesn't bake. When you lose the starter, you mean you, you physically misplace, or the starter dies an untimely death? Speaker B: You neglected so much that it dies, shrivels up and dies.
Speaker C: I mean, during COVID because there was a time in which we were not open for service, we were feeding our starter. Like we weren't feeding our starter. We were doing meals for the hospitality workers. Speaker B: First responders. Oh, you forgot about the first of the first responders. Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker B: Mrs. Starter herself. Speaker A: Don't gender that starter. Could have been a male as well, Jason. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker B: That's what you think, but no. Speaker A: Fellas can be starters too. Speaker B: No, no, no.
No, Mother Starter gives us life. Speaker A: Okay, so your starter, you weren't feeding it because you were worried about all these quote unquote first responders. You had to bang your pans for. Speaker C: And we lost the starter. Speaker B: And they're like, we no more kumquat jelly, please, please. My families. Do you have ramen? Speaker A: We're starving. Speaker B: I can't have any more yuzu. I don't care if I starve. Sorry, go ahead. Speaker C: No, no, keep going. Keep going. Speaker A: So, but if the starter dies, the only way to revive— there's no way to revive the starter.
You must obtain a new starter and go from zero. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Okay. So we ended up getting our starter from Walton Goggins, who— I know. Speaker A: You know that little freak has a couple starters on deck. Speaker B: Yeah. He stores them in his gums. You can see. Speaker A: It's like a Zen. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: Okay. So we ended up getting our starter from Walton Goggins, who— I know.
Speaker A: You know that little freak has a couple starters on deck. Speaker B: Yeah. He stores them in his gums. You can see. Speaker A: It's like a Zen. Speaker B: I just got a little starter right up here. Speaker C: That guy is a magical, yeah, he's a bread maker. He's a bread guy. Speaker A: Goddamn it, Eli. Goddamn it. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker B: Okay, so Goggins' starter, everyone says, this is what I always wonder about because I've always wanted to make my own sourdough because I love a good sourdough.
I love fresh baked bread, but for whatever reason, my brain tells me, don't get into it. You're going to get too many little dumb gadgets and you're going to It's going to fizzle in 9 months. And you just, so don't even bother. But when I hear the starter talk and people are like, I got mine from, you know, this Instagram, I got, it's a 1,000-year-old starter that I got from a Shaolin monk in a temple somewhere. This is from a grandma in Oaxaca over 7 generations. I want to know, ask you, I want to ask you, can you tell the difference between the starters?
Speaker C: I mean, probably not. Speaker A: Your summer starts now with Memorial Day deals at The Home Depot. It's time to fire up summer cookouts with the Nexgrill 4-burner gas grill on special buy for only $199. And entertain all season with the Hampton Bay West Grove 7-piece outdoor dining set for only $499. This Memorial Day, get low prices guaranteed at The Home Depot. While supplies last. Price invalid May 14th through May 27th. US only, exclusions apply. See com/pricematch for details. Speaker B: So good, so good, so good. Speaker C: Everything you want for summer is at Nordstrom Rack stores now and up to 60% off.
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Red Bull Summer All Day Play. Red Bull gives you wings. Visit com/brightsummerahead to learn more. See you this summer. Okay, but if you look at the comment section, the comment sections can go wild. We posted something about our focaccia because it is out of control amazing, and we use his focaccia— I mean, his, uh, we use his starter, and people are just like, once you start feeding it, it's not about The, you know, like, why are you even mentioning this? Okay, fine. Speaker B: Like, like once you add the starter to the flour and the other ingredients, it loses its— Speaker C: Once you start feeding it every day, it really takes on the environment that it's in.
So it really is about the water that you're feeding it, the flour that you're feeding it every day, and not so much its origin. But the origin story is good. Speaker B: Like, like once you add the starter to the flour and the other ingredients, it loses its— Speaker C: Once you start feeding it every day, it really takes on the environment that it's in. So it really is about the water that you're feeding it, the flour that you're feeding it every day, and not so much its origin. But the origin story is good.
Speaker B: Yeah. So the atmosphere of the room, the temperature, the climate, the humidity, the flour, the water, that all changes the starter into this new starter. Which is cool. The rest is still unwritten. It's an open book. Well, that's the beauty of starters and sourdough. I'm never going to get to the point where I'm happy with my sourdough and I've never made it before. So I just go and buy it from people who have devoted their life in a fucking autistic level to sourdough. Speaker C: I think you should enjoy the fruits of their labor.
That's the way. Speaker B: Get a loaf for $10. It would've cost me like $87 to make it at home. Speaker A: Yeah, that does seem like a lot of fucking work. Speaker C: Have you had the Two Rose country bread yet? Speaker B: I've had it. Speaker C: Yeah, it's so good. He's such a— he's great. Speaker B: He's the guy who used to do Hail Mary Pizza in Atwater Village, and they had this— Speaker A: oh, that place is good. We used to go there. Speaker B: We used to go there because they had this really rustic, super tangy, funky, interesting, so much character with the dough, and I'd love it.
But then he sold the business to somebody else. They're still making it. And then he came back doing just bread alone. Speaker C: Yeah, pop up in his house. Great guy. Great bread. Bread alone. Speaker A: One of the most beloved New York bakers from upstate. Is that Woodstock? Do you know what I'm talking about, Jessica? Speaker C: Yeah, pop up in his house. Great guy. Great bread. Bread alone. Speaker A: One of the most beloved New York bakers from upstate. Is that Woodstock? Do you know what I'm talking about, Jessica?
Speaker B: No, I just meant that he did bread alone, as in nothing else. I know. Speaker C: Yeah. Speaker B: But he makes a dank loaf. Speaker A: He does. Where are you able to purchase the dank loaf? Only at a farmer's market full of guys in fucking Birkenstocks. Speaker B: Follow his Instagram and he's like, I'm at this coffee shop, I'm at Proof, I'm at this farmer's market. Let me ask you a quick question. Speaker C: All that stuff. He's in his backyard. Speaker A: Let me ask you guys a quick question.
Speaker B: Or he's in his backyard. It's giving COVID. Speaker A: How do you make money doing that? Let's be honest. Come on. Speaker C: I don't— I— Speaker A: there's no way you can make a living to support your family selling bread pop-up style. There's just no way. Speaker C: I don't know. Speaker A: Yeah, there's no fucking way. Speaker B: I don't think that's true. I mean, that's how Bub and Grandma started. And now he's got fucking a huge wholesale business. Speaker C: I think something like that where you just don't have the overhead of— Speaker A: That's true.
That's true. Speaker C: Insurance, like the workers' comp, the insurance, the commercial real estate, triple net, all of those things. Additional labor. Like, those line items are really what are challenging to a restaurant. Speaker A: You would know better than me. That makes sense. Speaker B: Paying unemployment to some bozos who fucked up, but you got to do it anyway. The list goes on. Speaker A: I can't imagine the shit you got to deal with, Jessica. Oh my God. That shit, having employees is the worst. I can't imagine that. Because how many employees do you think you have if you had to estimate like right now?
Speaker A: I can't imagine the shit you got to deal with, Jessica. Oh my God. That shit, having employees is the worst. I can't imagine that. Because how many employees do you think you have if you had to estimate like right now? Speaker C: Look, I'm so, like, my fingers are so in the business. Like, I know all of these things. We have We have 62 employees right now. And before, when we just had breakfast and lunch, we had 42. So with the addition of dinner— Oh, wow. Speaker A: You added 20 people for dinner.
That's crazy. Speaker C: We had to. Speaker A: But there's crossover. There's crossover too, I'm sure. Speaker C: No. Speaker A: It's like a separate staff almost. Speaker C: Yes. Yeah. Speaker A: Why is that though? Speaker C: I think the separate staff is important because there's a different tone, right? Like the breakfast and lunch is casual. It's serve yourself. The dinner service is really refined and like service at the table. You know, people who know about wine and cocktail programs. And, um, you just need a different type of— Speaker A: I see what you're saying— Speaker C: of service professional.
Speaker A: Like, you can, you can, you can have the blue hair and the fucking hat taking the latte order, but they can't be telling somebody about the fucking wine list. It's two different jobs. Speaker C: I mean, it depends on the person. Like, they, they— yeah, because there are some folks from AM that have crossed over into PM for sure. Speaker A: That's a cool way to talk. That's a cool way to— that's a cool way to talk about it like that. AM to PM is a Yes, I like that.
Yeah, I mean, I guess that there's probably people that are in the AM that would aspire to be PM, and they're going to work towards that because it does feel like that could carry them further in the restaurant business if that's what they're looking for. Speaker C: If like, if they're people who are true hospitality professionals, they, they do stand out and have transitioned into PM. Speaker C: If like, if they're people who are true hospitality professionals, they, they do stand out and have transitioned into PM. Speaker B: I've noticed that my check totals for the PM are a little bit higher than the check totals for the AM.
So I mean, this is true from a server standpoint, you know, if I'm tipping my 22% on $187 versus— Speaker A: Jason, you're full of shit. You've never tipped 22%. Don't lie to her. She can look it up. Speaker B: That's not true. Speaker A: She can look it up. You're 18 max. Speaker C: I'm going to look it up now. Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker B: If you give me enough free shit, I'll tip you over 20%. Speaker A: You know what I was— you know what's very interesting is the— especially in a place like Los Angeles, right?
There are a lot of celebrities, for lack of a better term, you know, from everyone from reality star to a pop star to a famous actor, et cetera. They're all coming into play. Speaker B: From Bijou Phillips to Them Jeans, we run the gamut. Speaker A: They're all coming into Squirrel. And I know some of these people aren't tipping right. And I know that you have that data. I know that you have that data. And does that— Speaker C: I will never tell. Speaker A: I would never know. I would never ask you to tell.
But does it change your opinion? You know, when the new record comes out, are you like, you know what? Fuck that. Speaker B: Yeah. Does Phoebe Bridgers tip more than Kumail Nanjiani? Answer the question, Jessica. Speaker A: I just think they I think that if I was a person of note, I would be tipping 30% minimum so that Dumois never finds out who I really am. Speaker C: True. Speaker A: True. Speaker C: I think that, I think that's a good way to be. Speaker A: I think so too. There's no downside to that.
There's no doubt you have the money. Speaker B: What if you're a person of note who is secretly broke and can't afford it? Speaker C: True. Speaker A: True. Speaker C: I think that, I think that's a good way to be. Speaker A: I think so too. There's no downside to that. There's no doubt you have the money. Speaker B: What if you're a person of note who is secretly broke and can't afford it? Speaker A: I, I don't think you should be having dinner at Squirrel then. As you said, Jason, the check price has gone up.
Speaker B: I should be having my rotisserie chicken at home. Speaker A: Exactly. Speaker C: I will say that the check— our check average for PM is lower than I've seen at other, like, establishments that I've been to. Speaker A: Yeah, in the same echelon, which, which is— Speaker B: which I think is good. Speaker C: I think it's— I think it is good for, like, consistency. Like, we've seen you 3 times, which I appreciate, and you're not the only one we've seen. I am I have gone out to dinner recently to a lot of new restaurants.
And very rarely do I go, I'm going to go back. And I've seen people already back for their third time. And a lot of people are just talking about how, oh, yeah, I had this part of the menu, but I'm really excited to come back and try this side of the menu. Speaker B: Yeah. Speaker C: Like, that's great. Like, we've just created an album of bangers, you know? And we're already thinking about, like, what are our new songs? Speaker A: Who's in your sights? I know you got the AK pointed at all time.
I see you with the AR. Speaker C: I will never tell. I love everyone. Speaker B: Squirrel has actually good wine and good food. So that's the difference between them and All Time. Speaker A: I think going back to a restaurant for me honestly has all— I kind of think it has little to do with the food is the reality. Speaker C: I will never tell. I love everyone. Speaker B: Squirrel has actually good wine and good food. So that's the difference between them and All Time. Speaker A: I think going back to a restaurant for me honestly has all— I kind of think it has little to do with the food is the reality.
Speaker B: I think the price tag and the environment is what gets it. If you're priced sort of in the middle range, you know, like because it could be Squirrel or it could be like El Añi Oyster in Silver Lake, like two restaurants in Silver Lake where like like, it's not cheap, it's not overpriced. You're like, yeah, shrimp cocktail costs how much a shrimp cocktail should cost. The drinks are cold and stiff and it gets the job done. You know, the fries are hot and crispy. Let's do this once a week.
Let's do this 3 times a month versus like, that was a unique dining experience. I didn't know cucumber and black licorice and fennel pollen all work together. I'll be back again in 7 years. Speaker A: I do not want a unique dining experience. That is the last thing I fucking want. I don't want any sort of unique dining experience. Speaker B: Seems like a good transition into no Thailand, by the way. Speaker C: Oh no, Chris, can I tell you about it? Free the guys! I want to tell you, Chris, about a dish that we created at dinner that is specifically in some part because of you.
Are you ready for it? Speaker A: Wow, I'm touched. Speaker B: I spit my magna out all over the floor. Speaker A: I'm already touched, even if it's— it's going to be somehow a diss. Speaker B: Even if it's not a diss, I paid for your grad school the amount of fucking pesto I bought from you. I got nothing. Okay, sorry, go ahead, go ahead. My jealousy is out. Speaker A: Wow, I'm touched. Speaker B: I spit my magna out all over the floor. Speaker A: I'm already touched, even if it's— it's going to be somehow a diss.
Speaker B: Even if it's not a diss, I paid for your grad school the amount of fucking pesto I bought from you. I got nothing. Okay, sorry, go ahead, go ahead. My jealousy is out. Speaker A: Please, what? Speaker C: Please, Chris, you had talked on a podcast about going to a restaurant here in LA where it was tough for you to eat, find anything to eat, and that there was a fish covered in bacon. Speaker A: That's right. Speaker B: Shout out to Dunsmore with their, uh, their bacon vinaigrette.
Speaker A: I think The bacon vinaigrette. Classic bacon vinaigrette. Speaker C: That is a fucking delicious restaurant. Like, I, I do love that restaurant. Speaker A: Most people do. Speaker C: Yeah. And I also know how challenging it is in LA. You have a lot of vegetarian— well, this doesn't apply to vegetarians, but you have a lot of pescatarians and you have a lot of people that don't eat pork. Speaker B: Big Muslim community and the Jewish homies and Jewish community. Look, if you're, if you're fighting right now, you ain't eating No matter what side you're on.
Speaker A: Real talk. Speaker B: My omnivore ass is over here touching everything. Deer, reindeer penis. I don't give a fuck. Tofu. No oink. Speaker A: No oink. That's why I look this young, Jason. Speaker C: No oink. Speaker B: My larder is full of large if I'm going to keep it 100 with you guys. All right. Speaker A: I'm sorry. We're interrupting. Okay. So you heard me bitching and complaining as I normally do. Speaker A: No oink. That's why I look this young, Jason. Speaker C: No oink. Speaker B: My larder is full of large if I'm going to keep it 100 with you guys.
All right. Speaker A: I'm sorry. We're interrupting. Okay. So you heard me bitching and complaining as I normally do. Speaker C: Yes. Yeah. Speaker B: So she was like, what if I made the Dunsmore food good? Speaker A: So you have a response to that. You said I have it. Speaker C: We have this dish on the menu called Squimps. I mean, obviously at Sqirl, we're spelled incorrectly or correctly, however you call it. We have something called Squimps. It's squid. It's Pacific squid. And it's stuffed with a chorizo. At first, we were, you know, in kind of Spanish fashion, having it be a pork chorizo.
We had talked about different varieties. Someone had brought up pork chorizo, and I was like, I was like, Chris Black will be so mad at this. Speaker A: Wow. Speaker C: I'm like— Speaker B: Even though the flavors of seafood and pork dance beautifully together, Chris does not eat pork. So he— Speaker C: Chris does not eat pork. Speaker B: You need an alternative chorizo. Speaker C: So we made a squid chorizo. So we made— sorry, not a squid chorizo. So we made a shrimp chorizo. And that shrimp chorizo, we got some little tips from Josh and Ilan about— and I don't think we ended up using that version, but more of like a shrimp paste turned chorizo.
And so it's for you. Speaker A: If I can inspire anything on the Squirrel menu, because Jason, I would agree, you have spent more money at Squirrel, but there was a point where we lived in Beachwood where every time I got home from LAX, I would order my crispy rice bowl with extra eggs. So I have put in some work. I don't go to the restaurant a lot because it just feels far away. Speaker A: If I can inspire anything on the Squirrel menu, because Jason, I would agree, you have spent more money at Squirrel, but there was a point where we lived in Beachwood where every time I got home from LAX, I would order my crispy rice bowl with extra eggs.
So I have put in some work. I don't go to the restaurant a lot because it just feels far away. Speaker C: From London? Speaker A: Well, from London, of course, but from West Hollywood even. It's a little bit of a walk. Speaker B: Chris lives in WeHo when he's in LA. Speaker A: I see. It's a little bit of a walk. Speaker B: But Chris, you need to know that the East Side also has has a pretty robust LGBTQ community, LGBTQ community that you'll feel comfortable in. Speaker A: They're not the same.
It's a different— I like classic LGBTQ+. I don't like the new versions. I don't, you know what I mean? I want old school. Speaker C: What's the new version? Speaker B: They don't have guys dancing in the front windows. Speaker A: Exactly. WeHo is the— WeHo is one of the most— the, the best classic gay neighborhood in the world. It's just guys. It's just buff guys of all ages, of all styles of dress. Speaker B: You're like, is anything there good? No, but it's gay. Speaker A: No, it's gay. There's plenty of good stuff.
Don't do that. I mean, I'm not saying food-wise. I just mean culture-wise. Speaker B: Oh yeah. Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker C: What's your WeHo go-to? Is it Sean Brock's restaurant? Speaker A: No, I know nobody's been there. Definitely not me. Speaker B: People only go there to write bad reviews about it. I feel bad for him. Speaker A: I really don't go. I mean, we go to Grill on the Alley and we go to Joss. And we go to San Vicente Bungalow, you know, Sunset. It's all the places that you think.
Speaker B: Chateau, Sunset Tower, uh, Chateau. What— Speaker A: where else do we go? Speaker B: We go to the Chateau to drink more than eat because the food there is really pretty— Speaker B: Chateau, Sunset Tower, uh, Chateau. What— Speaker A: where else do we go? Speaker B: We go to the Chateau to drink more than eat because the food there is really pretty— Speaker A: I don't think the food is as bad as you think it is. You think the food's bad at every restaurant. Speaker C: I agree with Jason, and I also agree with him for saying like, if you invite me to go eat there, 10 out of 10 times I'll say yes, just because the vibe, the vibe I don't want to say the room because it's like outside, but it really feels like LA.
Speaker B: Space. Speaker C: You know, the space and how you're treated as you— you know, the tone of it. Speaker A: Yeah, I love how I'm treated. Like, are you sure you're on the list? Are you sure? Who are you here to see? I love that. I love the treatment. Speaker C: Once you're in, once you're in. Speaker B: Yeah, once you are granted access to the space, then yeah, the level of hospitality and service is unmatched. Speaker A: You know what I miss going to in West Hollywood is— what's the pizza place that Big Boy opened, Jason, that we went to when it was really hot?
Funky. Funky. No, but not Funky. What's the pizza place called? Speaker C: Mother Wolf. Speaker B: Mother Wolf. Speaker A: I love Mother Wolf. This shit looks like you're in fucking Vegas. The food is good. I love that place. Speaker C: It feels like an Italian Balthazar. Speaker A: Totally. Speaker C: I walked in, I was like, I am in Balthazar. Speaker B: The only difference is the Balthazar clientele is usually pretty fantastic. And the clientele at Mother Wolf— Speaker A: That's wrong. That's wrong. Speaker B: The clientele at Mother Wolf is bad.
Speaker C: But no, I like mom and dad fighting. This is fun. Speaker B: For no fault of Funky's, it's just the location of it right in the center of Hollywood. Los Angeles's butthole. Speaker A: People would argue that Balthazar's— people would argue that the same— people consider SoHo to also be the butthole. Speaker C: But no, I like mom and dad fighting. This is fun. Speaker B: For no fault of Funky's, it's just the location of it right in the center of Hollywood. Los Angeles's butthole. Speaker A: People would argue that Balthazar's— people would argue that the same— people consider SoHo to also be the butthole.
Speaker B: Yeah, that's true. Speaker A: New York. And but I think Balthazar— Speaker B: I think narcissism of small diffies. Speaker A: I think all of the— I think all of the Keith Miale restaurants are the somehow the perfect mix of tourists and locals. And it's always like, no local would ever be like, I don't want to go there because there's too many tourists. Speaker B: Somehow they'll always suck down a burger at Minetta or whatever. Speaker A: It's just not a— it's not part of the conversation. No one cares that it's mostly people people from Idaho.
Speaker C: I do have to say that our neighborhood and our area, our East Side, like, I really love the clientele. Like, I think that it's— Speaker A: that makes one of us. Speaker C: It's warm. Speaker A: Hey, no, I'm joking, I'm joking. Speaker B: I— Speaker A: it's so weird. Like, when I, when I first started going to LA, I, I, I stayed in hotels in West Hollywood, and then when— and then when Silver Lake was it, that I wouldn't ever— I couldn't imagine going to West Hollywood for any reason, or even.
I try not to go over there at all if I can. And I just, I don't know what there is for me besides like a restaurant. Speaker C: Is it because Jason's there? Speaker A: No, I go to Jason's house. Speaker B: No, when we went, we went to Erewhon the last time he was here. And you, Chris, did admit that the clientele is better looking than the WeHo Erewhon. Speaker A: Oh yeah, the clientele was better looking. Oh, that Erewhon is some of the hottest people on earth. Speaker C: The one in Silver Lake?
Speaker B: In Silver Lake. Speaker A: Yes. Speaker B: If you go at the right time, you know, you got 2 Hollis there. That's everything. You know, he got no shirt on. Speaker A: Oh yeah, the clientele was better looking. Oh, that Erewhon is some of the hottest people on earth. Speaker C: The one in Silver Lake? Speaker B: In Silver Lake. Speaker A: Yes. Speaker B: If you go at the right time, you know, you got 2 Hollis there. That's everything. You know, he got no shirt on. Speaker C: I refrain.
Speaker A: You could catch a guy eating shirtless there. That's true. Speaker B: On the subject, I'm sure Connor story's been there doing some, you know, buying some probiotic water. But, um, on the subject of the neighborhoods, and I, I'm assuming you will not answer this, but have you, have you designed the, the nighttime menu to exclude a certain type of diner consciously or subconsciously? Because I'm really into exclusion of people, not necessarily based on race, class, or anything like that, but just like shitty people go over there. Nice, cool, normal people come in.
You know what I mean? Okay. Say no more. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker C: That's crazy. Speaker B: What do you mean that's crazy? Speaker A: There's no way for a restaurant. Speaker C: No way. Speaker A: A restaurant in 2026 cannot exclude anyone or they will go out of business. No. I really believe that. Speaker C: Come on. Speaker B: Dan Tannis, Chateau Marmont. Speaker A: Dan Tannis, you can make a reservation on fucking OpenTable. What are you talking about? Speaker B: Not really. It's not that easy to get a table at Dan Tannis.
You can't just go into the chateau You can't just get a table at the Sunset Tower. If you look like a goofy, they'll sit you in the goofy section. There's certain places that exclude— Speaker A: Sit me in the goofy section. Sit me in the goofy section. You're still taking my money. Speaker B: Look, it could be like we're talking about restaurants that you might not want to go to every week. Let's say Baby Bistro. It's a restaurant, a beloved restaurant in Chinatown. But the menu and the decor and the wine and the every, you know, it's, it exclude, it includes a certain type and it excludes a certain type.
There's certain people out there who you might not want to be around and you could design a menu and the aesthetics and things like that. Speaker A: Sit me in the goofy section. Sit me in the goofy section. You're still taking my money. Speaker B: Look, it could be like we're talking about restaurants that you might not want to go to every week. Let's say Baby Bistro. It's a restaurant, a beloved restaurant in Chinatown. But the menu and the decor and the wine and the every, you know, it's, it exclude, it includes a certain type and it excludes a certain type.
There's certain people out there who you might not want to be around and you could design a menu and the aesthetics and things like that. Speaker A: They designed it, they designed to keep me out with that fucking name so that they already got, they already got one on me. Speaker B: Okay. Now, so an example food-wise to maybe get you to say a word because I don't, I don't blame you for not speaking because that would be insane. Some restaurants will have the cheeseburger, you know, as like Dunsmore, for example, you make a really good burger and suddenly your restaurant becomes a burger restaurant.
You try to pull— we only make 10 of them and you got to line up at noon to get them and blah, blah, blah. It turns into a whole thing. So I've noticed you don't have a burger on your menu. Speaker C: No, we don't. We don't have a burger on our menu, but it's just because labor-wise, it's, you know, we have to focus on the things that we do well right now. And as we have the ability to do more, we'll do more. Speaker A: Our burgers— our burgers— Speaker C: our burgers— Speaker A: no, no, but like, let her talk, Chris.
Speaker B: Let her talk. Speaker C: I'm laughing because we want to do something on Sundays. Like, we wanted to do like a specific thing on Sundays, but then I'm just like putting myself back into the line of fire because we want to like do like a sausage Sunday That sounds like a West Hollywood party to me. Speaker A: Our burgers— our burgers— Speaker C: our burgers— Speaker A: no, no, but like, let her talk, Chris. Speaker B: Let her talk. Speaker C: I'm laughing because we want to do something on Sundays.
Like, we wanted to do like a specific thing on Sundays, but then I'm just like putting myself back into the line of fire because we want to like do like a sausage Sunday That sounds like a West Hollywood party to me. Speaker B: Why is that putting you in the line of fire in terms of gay jokery? I mean, you could do it at the Eagle. They'll do a co-brand collab. Speaker C: Yeah, but I'm down. Speaker B: Okay, so bear night at Squirrel every Sunday. Speaker C: Bear night. Speaker B: Come over for a keelbass.
I think that's a nice idea. Speaker C: Yeah, yeah. I think it— we were just in London as well. We went to Camberwell Arms. Fucking delicious. So, so good. And you know, they do like Sunday roast. I think that there's something really nice about like these pubs that do something very specific for Sunday. And so, you know, whether it's like a fried chicken Sunday, we're just trying to figure out what it is. But I had always— I really love this place in Paris that has like the really soft pomme and sausage that they do.
I'm blanking on the name right now. Speaker A: What is it? What is it? What is a soft palm? Speaker C: Well, it's like, it's a pomme à la goâte. It's a, it's a potato. Speaker A: Oh, oh, oh, palm, palm. I was hearing you say— Speaker C: like a mashed potato. Speaker A: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Speaker B: Have you had the, um, and you, you do a, you do a very nice pomme à la goâte at Squirrel, but also Wild's up the street. They've got a nice little banger and mash set, right?
Speaker C: Well, it's like, it's a pomme à la goâte. It's a, it's a potato. Speaker A: Oh, oh, oh, palm, palm. I was hearing you say— Speaker C: like a mashed potato. Speaker A: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Speaker B: Have you had the, um, and you, you do a, you do a very nice pomme à la goâte at Squirrel, but also Wild's up the street. They've got a nice little banger and mash set, right? Speaker C: I haven't been there yet. I've, I've tried to get in, but I haven't been able to get in.
Speaker B: Oh, just do a walk-in. We can go if you want, but we've never made a res, but But you just go put your name down and grab a martini across the street and, you know, 30 minutes, come by. It's all good. Speaker C: Sounds great. Speaker A: Hey, look, that place sounds good to me, but that's the last kind of food I want to eat in LA. The reason they eat that shit over here is because they're depressed. Speaker B: Chris, I know you. I will take you to Wild's and I'll order you the right thing and you will literally say best restaurant in LA.
Speaker C: Oh, wow. Speaker A: Wow. Okay. Big talk. Speaker C: We're here. But that's okay. Speaker B: Because of the clientele, it's all women that follow you on Instagram and they have enough Nor like you can get some French fries and a piece of fish with some mushy peas. Speaker A: Oh, I see. Speaker B: Okay. Speaker A: It's not like super heavy. Speaker B: And greens that you're going to like and the bread and butter that you're going to like. And like, you're going to— Speaker A: I'm ready to try.
I mean, if I can go to Squirrel for dinner when I'm back, you know, we'll see if she can fit me in. Speaker B: Okay. Well, this is a three-top on the Zoom right now, honey. Speaker C: I would like to go with you to Wild's. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker B: Okay. Speaker A: But is it small, Jason, or is it just busy? Speaker C: Both. Speaker B: It's not huge. It's not huge. It's bigger. It's, I would say like it's a little bit bigger than Stir Crazy. Speaker A: Okay.
Speaker B: And very small. Speaker C: I would like to go with you to Wild's. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker B: Okay. Speaker A: But is it small, Jason, or is it just busy? Speaker C: Both. Speaker B: It's not huge. It's not huge. It's bigger. It's, I would say like it's a little bit bigger than Stir Crazy. Speaker A: Okay. Speaker B: And very small. Speaker A: That's pretty small. Speaker B: It's pretty small. And the higher ceiling, so it feels bigger. Okay. Okay. So the no burger on the menu is not for any reason.
Like, so you plan to, or you would like to have one on there, even though if you make it so good, good. No one's going to order your thoughtful black cod dish and your this and your this and the pork chop and the Peeds and Barnetts. Yeah, we're going to be running burgers and fries and your checks are going to be in half. What's up, Mama? Speaker C: Yeah, yeah. I, you know, and, and one of the things that I, I think I might have said to you, but we do make our own fries, which I, I take a lot of pride in.
I think that there's very few restaurants that actually do it. Speaker A: You're saying all these restaurants are hitting the Sysco truck for their motherfucking fries? Speaker C: I just want you to ask. Speaker A: Damn, tell me my favorite, tell me my Tell me my favorite, tell me my favorite restaurant that uses fries from Cisco. Speaker B: Just, I mean, I mean, almost most of them because it's just like, for our listeners at home, she's doing the heart hands emoji right now to let us know it's all love, and she's doing the finger Korean heart as well.
Speaker A: But, but making, making— Speaker B: but I think, I think a Cisco fry is very similar to like how like people prefer Diet Coke to regular Coke now, or they prefer crack to cocaine or whatever. Speaker C: You're like, I mean, they're good. That's the thing, like they've made a good— Speaker B: it's If you fry it the right way at the right temp, good oil, good salt, and serve it fresh, like, it's quite good. Speaker B: but I think, I think a Cisco fry is very similar to like how like people prefer Diet Coke to regular Coke now, or they prefer crack to cocaine or whatever.
Speaker C: You're like, I mean, they're good. That's the thing, like they've made a good— Speaker B: it's If you fry it the right way at the right temp, good oil, good salt, and serve it fresh, like, it's quite good. Speaker A: The real question is who can tell the difference? You know what I mean? I think it's probably a small— I mean, I understand the point of pride of making your own because that's obviously better. Speaker B: Slippery slope though. I was thinking about this morning. It's just like AI artwork.
Like, if nobody can tell the difference, then who cares? And then, yeah, why at a certain point, why hire a graphic designer if nobody knows the difference? You know what I mean? Speaker A: I mean, I, no, I think you're right. I see that. I see what you're saying. I just, I just, I mean, I hate it, but this is how, this is like when I talk about like people saying they can tell a difference in, in like a song, you know, that's mastered by this person or mastered by that person.
Mm-hmm. I'm like, you're lying. Speaker C: You just can't. Speaker A: Yeah. There are very few people that can actually tell the difference. Speaker B: Very few. Very few. Speaker C: I think, I think ours is like a, there's a textural difference. Speaker A: Yeah. Speaker C: But you might, you might not be able to tell. You might just be like, wow, these are great fries. Mm-hmm. Yeah. Speaker A: I was about to say all that matters is that they leave saying they're great. Speaker B: It doesn't, and you, you feel good.
And if they ask, I think the people who buy and cook Cisco fries will be able to tell and And then everyone else will just say, these are good fries. But your fries are quite good. The dipping sauce is just a little too spicy for my Caucasian palate though. Speaker C: Did you ask for ketchup? You can just get regular old— Speaker B: I didn't ask for ketchup, but with my fries, I like a mayonnaise or an aioli, but I like it to be very plain. Speaker C: Well, you can ask for that too.
There's no ego about it. Speaker C: Did you ask for ketchup? You can just get regular old— Speaker B: I didn't ask for ketchup, but with my fries, I like a mayonnaise or an aioli, but I like it to be very plain. Speaker C: Well, you can ask for that too. There's no ego about it. Speaker A: I'm putting you on the spot. There's definitely an ego about you. I'm going to put it on the spot. Thought, I— why do restaurants skimp on ketchup? When I got— I— when I asked for ketchup, I want an amount I can actually use.
I don't want a cute little tin. I don't want a cute little jar. I want— either give me the 57, I tap that shit myself and fill half my fucking plate up, or give me a— not a gravy boat. Speaker B: That was nice about Horses. They had the big— the big wine holder filled with ice, and it was just Heinz 57 bottles. Speaker C: That was so smart. Speaker B: Grab it for the— plunk it down for the table. Speaker A: I just— last night— last night I had— I was at a great restaurant in London, the were delicious.
I literally had to ask the guy 3 times because I was like, dude, this is not— this is, this is a child size, if that. It's like a thimble of ketchup. And I know this sounds gross and American and fat, but what can I say? Speaker C: Look, you, you, you want the ketchup. Speaker B: Yeah, how many ounces are you squirting over there? Speaker A: I want it. I want a squirt. Give me a fucking squirt. Speaker B: Yeah, I mean, that's the thing that I think about a lot with dining is restaurants need to serve the amount of food in terms— I guess maybe in terms of shareable dishes or sauces Like if I'm, let's say I'm super hungover and I'm going to order a little side of ranch with my pizza, I want to not have to ration my dips of crust in the ranch or ration the amount of chips in my guacamole or whatever.
I want to be able to never hit the end of the ranch. I want to be able to never hit the end of the ketchup. Speaker C: Have you been to Musso and Frank's, Chris? Terrace. Speaker A: Awful restaurant. I like actually hate it. I don't get it. Like, I don't find it that charming. I just don't find it that charming. I, I like places, but normally, normally I love places like that. Like, that's the kind of place I like, but something about that one just— it rubs me the wrong way.
Speaker B: What elements of Musso and Frank did you design Squirrel After Dark after? Speaker C: The ketchup and the martini service. The martini service, but the ketchup comes in like a sauce, uh, bell. Speaker A: Yeah, it's hearty. It's hearty. Speaker B: Like a gravy boat of ketchup. Speaker C: Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like dressing on the side. Speaker B: I want an embarrassment of ketchup. Speaker A: I would like to talk about, uh, onion rings because they're very underrepresented, I feel like, on a lot of menus. Speaker C: I would love to have onion rings on the menu.
Speaker B: Girl, you would fuck an onion ring up. I could already say there's gonna be like some, some like indigenous masa flour up in there that's gonna be supporting single mothers. Speaker A: Why do these onion rings taste so— why do they taste so good? Speaker B: Nixtamalized fennel rings. Speaker A: Oh, are they hard to— are they hard to make, or is it just— it does it feel like old school to people? I feel like they should be as popular as french fries. They're delicious. Speaker C: They're, they're so good.
I, I absolutely love it, and I agree, I would love to have them on the menu. I, again, I think it's a matter of like, give us time time, because we've played around with it. Um, I grew up going to Tony Roma's. Did you grow up, Jason, going to Tony Roma's? Speaker B: Oh yeah. Speaker C: What was it, like the onion loaf there? Like, I know it's not onion rings, but I, I am like a big onion ring person. And also the onions that were at, um, Contra Bar— not, not Contra, but like Wild Air.
Did you ever have those? Like, they had like this tapioca crust around Um, that was— it was so— they're so good. Speaker A: Well, my, my, my favorite were from a— I mean, this is weird, but a vegetarian restaurant in Toronto, and they were quinoa battered, and the crunch really hit. Speaker C: I gotta say, the crunch— like, was on them too, like raw, or— Speaker A: yeah, at a restaurant called— no, no, like breaded. A restaurant called Fresh in Toronto that had a few locations. I think they tried to open in LA and it bombed.
But Jason at Kimball House in Atlanta— Kimball House in Atlanta has an amazing— Speaker C: my friend's restaurant has an amazing house and the onion ring, the bread service there, like, oh my God. Speaker A: No, that— the Hawaiian roll is unreal. Speaker C: Unreal. Speaker B: So where do you, where do you ring? My, my onion ring journey began at Carl's Jr. with the bacon western cheeseburger, and then, you know, nowadays I feel like Grill on the Alley, they've got a great onion ring that's served with a sidecar of blue cheese stock.
Don't ask for it. It just comes with blue cheese, which is like— Speaker C: how do you feel about that? Speaker B: I mean, I love it because I love blue cheese. I love onion rings. But it is excessive and gluttonous. Like, after you dip your second onion ring in blue cheese dressing, you're like, all right, I got to start making some life changes. Or just like, I'm going to allow myself to eat two, and that was my fucking heroin overdose moment, and I will come back to you again in a That's why I asked for ketchup.
Speaker B: I mean, I love it because I love blue cheese. I love onion rings. But it is excessive and gluttonous. Like, after you dip your second onion ring in blue cheese dressing, you're like, all right, I got to start making some life changes. Or just like, I'm going to allow myself to eat two, and that was my fucking heroin overdose moment, and I will come back to you again in a That's why I asked for ketchup. Speaker A: I can't do it. I can't. I don't like white sauces though.
Speaker B: That, you know, I do both. Make it pink, brother. Speaker A: Oh, make it pink. Speaker C: Oh, together. No, Jesus Christ. Speaker A: Get out of here. Speaker B: I don't, I don't dip. I don't dip together, but I'll do one, one in ketchup bite, one in blue bite. Let them swim around in the mouth for a minute. You know what I mean? Speaker A: You're disgusting. You're disgusting. And I know you're doing it on purpose and I don't appreciate it one fucking bit. Speaker B: Speaking of.
Of foods a little bit more. We were talking when I was there a couple nights ago, and you were talking about the fish dish moving from one preparation to another. And I was thinking what the strategy is when you are a restaurant that is primarily outdoor seating. You open in the middle of winter, and it happens to be 90 degrees and hottest— the hottest place in the world. Do you have to, you know, move quickly on your feet and adjust some things? Speaker C: I mean, I'll step back to be— to say that we were going to open in December and the menu was still totally— Speaker A: You were all— you were also going to— you were also going to open in 2023.
Speaker B: December 2023. Speaker C: I mean, I'll step back to be— to say that we were going to open in December and the menu was still totally— Speaker A: You were all— you were also going to— you were also going to open in 2023. Speaker B: December 2023. Speaker C: I know. Let me be clear. Look, it's good that we waited. Speaker B: No, I love that you waited because it's one of those things where you're like— Speaker C: It wasn't right. Speaker B: You took your time and every single dish is considered enough, even down to the little side of rice like everything was like, okay, it's all considered.
There's no, there's no skips. Yeah, since you said you made an album with no banger— with all bangers. Speaker C: Yeah, there's— there— it's a, it's a good, it's a good playlist. And, uh, we like— there's some dishes on the menu that we had planned in at the end of the year that didn't make it on because the weather changed, like the season changed. Speaker B: It was a full Christmas roast menu. Speaker C: Yeah, pretty much like sausage And now it's ceviche weather. Speaker B: Okay. Well, for example, the fish I had was a black cod with kind of a beurre blanc sauce.
It was a rich heartwarming meal, but then you have to, nobody wants to eat that when it's 97 degrees outside. It's a tough putt. What are you going to do to the fish to make it a little more tropical? Speaker C: I mean, we're changing the fish altogether. So as we go into April, that's also where a lot of the ingredients change here in Southern California. Speaker A: Are you saying, because I've been having some first of the season asparagus over here in London. Speaker C: And I have to say, we're in asparagus land.
It's doing a lot. I know, we're already there. Speaker A: I've had asparagus 2 nights in a row. Speaker A: Are you saying, because I've been having some first of the season asparagus over here in London. Speaker C: And I have to say, we're in asparagus land. It's doing a lot. I know, we're already there. Speaker A: I've had asparagus 2 nights in a row. Speaker B: Dude, the asparagus that I had with the makrut lime, I think that was the flavor. Speaker C: It's a highlight. Speaker B: I have found myself coming back to the most out of everything I ate, which is crazy to compete with chicken liver pâté.
Speaker C: Yeah, it's special. I think when you think about asparagus, it's kind of like, keep it simple. Kiss, and we just didn't do that. Um, and the sauce is just so good. Speaker A: You said hollandaise. I don't know her. I'm going crazy on this shit. Speaker B: We're going to recruit with it. Speaker A: I'm about to do something different. Speaker B: There's going to be a challenging dust on top as well of unknown origins. Speaker C: That's true. Call me out, call me out. I love it. Speaker B: It takes one to know one.
Speaker C: Yeah. Um, so yeah, we're changing the fish. We have mackerel that's coming in right now, so it'll be like a grilled mackerel with, you know, some sort of preserved citrus situation and some— Speaker A: don't put— no, hold on, don't put your little jams on top of the fish. Now let's calm down. Speaker C: No jams, no jam, no meat, no jam. Speaker B: I've been— I went to Fish Jam '97. I fucking— I did 3 triple stacks. Honestly, it was sick. Um, mackerel is one of my superfoods, actually.
It plays well with my microbiome. Speaker A: You're like a little cat. Speaker B: But I love the mackerel, the whole fried mackerel from BCD Tofu. A little squeeze of lemon on It's fucked up. Speaker C: Yeah. Keep it nice. So I, yeah, I think that, that'll be, that's just one of the changes. We just have, we have a bunch, but you know, we're, we're a bunch of chefs that love to create and love to evolve. And so it has to be thoughtful evolution that there's things that are coming on.
Like we have like a vongole with a ramp pasta coming on. Speaker A: You're like a little cat. Speaker B: But I love the mackerel, the whole fried mackerel from BCD Tofu. A little squeeze of lemon on It's fucked up. Speaker C: Yeah. Keep it nice. So I, yeah, I think that, that'll be, that's just one of the changes. We just have, we have a bunch, but you know, we're, we're a bunch of chefs that love to create and love to evolve. And so it has to be thoughtful evolution that there's things that are coming on.
Like we have like a vongole with a ramp pasta coming on. Speaker A: Not ramp season. Are we already there? Speaker C: It's, it's almost, it's almost happening. We're getting there. We're like creeping into it. Speaker A: You can't go to, you can't go to the hour. Order farmers market if it's fucking ramp season, you might get took. You might get got. Speaker B: Yeah, real heads know when ramp season comes at Whole Foods, grab, you know, 7 of those and we're ringing those up as green onions, not organic, just regular.
Speaker A: Nice, nice, nice, nice, nice. Speaker B: Friend of the show Dan Frommer is too afraid to do it, but maybe this year could be the year that he bucks up. Speaker A: Let's get Dan. Let's get Dan on the wrong side. Speaker C: He's a law-abiding citizen, that guy. Speaker B: Oh no, we need to— we need those people in our lives. Speaker C: You haven't met my husband. Speaker A: Oh, is he a narc? Speaker C: No, he's, he's, he's just— he's the kind of guy that like stops at the stop sign, waits for 3 turns both ways, then keeps going.
Speaker A: Sure. Yeah, no, that's a solid man. Speaker B: The last real fight I got in with Carolyn was about that. Speaker A: You were rolling that— you were rolling or she was rolling? Speaker B: She wanted to stop. Speaker A: Really? She doesn't strike me as a stopper. Speaker B: On certain intersections where it's like gnarly, especially in Glendale where people drive their M3s 100. Speaker A: Sure. Yeah, no, that's a solid man. Speaker B: The last real fight I got in with Carolyn was about that. Speaker A: You were rolling that— you were rolling or she was rolling?
Speaker B: She wanted to stop. Speaker A: Really? She doesn't strike me as a stopper. Speaker B: On certain intersections where it's like gnarly, especially in Glendale where people drive their M3s 100. Speaker A: Well, You're not risk adverse behind the wheel. I'll say that about you. You're an amazing driver, but you're pushing it a little far. You're going— Speaker B: a red light is merely a suggestion to me. Speaker A: I don't want you to go Paul Walker mode, if you know what I'm saying. Speaker B: I'm very safe.
I just happen to drive efficiently. Speaker A: Sure, sure. Yeah, really, you're just a crazy guy. Uh, is the, is the market still open next door to the restaurant? Speaker C: It is-ish. So, okay, something that's happening is that actually launching a delivery, but not the same menu as Squirrel. Um, it's a new delivery, um, menu that will be on Uber Eats. And so when that happens, we'll have— Speaker A: hold on, Jessica, did you partner with Uber Eats on the special menu? Speaker C: Oh, we just— Speaker A: hold the fuck on.
Speaker B: This is similar. So this is your CPK ASAP or your Chili's to go. Speaker A: Why are you doing a separate menu when you already have a menu. You have two good menus. Speaker B: She's— I think she's about to tell us certain things don't travel well. Speaker C: The dinner menu is really meant for dine-in. I— in AM service, we've created a menu that's delicious for here and to go, and the vibe is different. Like, now post-COVID, we're in the 30%-ish, sometimes more, for to-go, and it changes the experience when you dine in.
Like, you, you You want to feel something, you want like to be a part of something. And so for me, dinner service has to be like squarely dinner, but I still love the delivery arm and I think it is an important part of keeping a business like a restaurant business safe and healthy economically. And so we did develop a dinner menu that is just— it feels like the Harrods box boxes. Like, you should go check it out if you haven't. Speaker A: I've had a Harrods box. Speaker C: Had a Harrods box.
So it's a little bit in that camp, um, for, for delivery. Um, and once that launches, then you'll have like an active person on the market side, and you know, you'll be able to order to go. Speaker A: But yeah, well, how much, how much jam are we selling these days? Because that shit's probably cranking, isn't it? Speaker C: Low-key, it's, it's cranking. We're looking— yeah, it's I knew it. Speaker A: I knew it. Speaker C: We're, yeah, yeah. We sell a lot to all over the United States. Speaker A: Well, when can we develop a How Long Gone flavor?
Because we're, I have a lot of thoughts and I think— Speaker B: Interesting. Speaker A: I'm not— Speaker C: Okay, let's get into it. Is there makrut lime leaf in there? Speaker A: Hell no. Hell no. I don't, that's what I'm saying. I think we need to take it back to the, we need to strip it back to the fucking bones, to the studs. We need to something. What if we just made the best— I mean, because you don't have any regular shit. It's all funky. It's all funked up. Speaker C: I mean, we got something.
We got some regular shit. Speaker A: We have like some very, very normal, but you don't have like How Long Gone Blueberry where it's just the best blueberry. You know what I'm saying? You don't have— Speaker C: that's true. Speaker A: I'm saying like, what if we don't get crazy with it? What if we just— Speaker B: what if we don't add tarragon? Speaker A: What if we somehow resisted? Speaker C: That is flavor. Speaker B: Wow. Speaker A: That's what I'm saying. What if— what— How Long Gone— Speaker B: I'm aware of the blueberry tarragon.
Speaker A: How Long Gone Strawberry could be the best seller because it's just straight up what you want. Speaker B: Or maybe we We can partner because I've been making these Christmas thumbprint cookies. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sorry, holiday thumbprint cookies every year. Speaker A: Thank you. Thank you. Speaker B: And I've been wanting to sort of create it as our Christmas gift, like our little calling card, like Tom Cruise's cake that he sends out every year for the holidays. Speaker A: How Long Gone Strawberry could be the best seller because it's just straight up what you want.
Speaker B: Or maybe we We can partner because I've been making these Christmas thumbprint cookies. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Sorry, holiday thumbprint cookies every year. Speaker A: Thank you. Thank you. Speaker B: And I've been wanting to sort of create it as our Christmas gift, like our little calling card, like Tom Cruise's cake that he sends out every year for the holidays. Speaker C: Have you ever gotten one of those? Speaker B: I did get one. Not from Tom Cruise though, from Ian, our producer. Speaker C: Was it amazing? Speaker B: The cake was not— it was not very good.
It was not very good. I mean, there's so many good coconut cakes in LA now, between Quarter Sheets and Erewhon and Jones on Third. Speaker C: Okay, talk to me about what you fill this cookie with. What's your jam of choice? Speaker B: Well, it changes all the time, but I've used a lot of squirrel and the blueberry tarragon has been the one that works the most because the cookie, it's like a cream cheese base cookie. Speaker A: Oh, hell no. I didn't know that. Don't tell me that. Speaker C: Now you don't want to do blueberry tarragon.
Raspberry? Speaker A: No, no, I love these cookies. Like, I'm, I'm pissed if I miss them. Speaker B: They're really good. But the other, the two flavors are the almond extract is like the main undernote flavor for it. And then there's chopped pecans on top. Speaker A: Jason, what if we did a Georgia style peach to complement the pecans and we go full below the Mason-Dixon? Something to think about. I don't want to take the, I don't want to take the lead here, but it's something. Jessica, have you played in the peach peach fields?
Speaker C: Of course, of course. Speaker A: But, but what did you add to it? I knew you added some— Speaker A: Jason, what if we did a Georgia style peach to complement the pecans and we go full below the Mason-Dixon? Something to think about. I don't want to take the, I don't want to take the lead here, but it's something. Jessica, have you played in the peach peach fields? Speaker C: Of course, of course. Speaker A: But, but what did you add to it? I knew you added some— Speaker C: you— Speaker A: I know you added something funky.
What'd you add? Speaker B: She's like, well, I did unripe green peaches, lemon verbena. Speaker A: Lemon verbena? That's hand soap, Jessica. How the fuck you put that in my jam? Speaker C: What the hell? Speaker B: Little verbena. Okay, no, that's not a bad idea. And we could do— we could do crushed peanuts on top instead. Let's see how far we can push it, right? Speaker A: Oh my God, we're gonna get Jimmy Carter in on this shit. Speaker C: Would, would you have it go to charity? Speaker B: No.
Speaker C: All the money? No. Speaker B: Hell no. Speaker A: What the fuck? We're a business, okay? Speaker B: Yeah, I'm a charity. Speaker A: We didn't get in trouble with our jam. Our jam, we're cool, we're good. Speaker B: You think Birkins are cheap? I'm the charity. Speaker A: Yeah, my shit is charity. Speaker B: So I'm paying for the hotel I'm in with my credit, my car note high every month, okay? Speaker A: No, but Jessica, I've never had a Squirrel Jam I don't like, to be fair.
They're delicious. I just, I love the idea of maybe stripping it back. Speaker B: Yeah, Chris is big. He's trying to regular max this summer. Speaker C: Yeah, yeah, okay. Speaker B: He said, what if, what if my strawberry jam did if it didn't have Szechuan peppercorns in it, you know? What would that look like? Speaker A: The thing is, Jessica, when I think about jam, and this is probably exclusive to a former, a recovering fat person from the South, I think of biscuit application first and foremost. Speaker C: I do too.
Speaker A: Like, that is like, oh, you do? Speaker B: Okay. On the Bo Berry biscuit. Speaker A: Because I feel like a lot of people go to toast, you know what I mean, is where their head goes. My head goes biscuit first, even though I don't have biscuits in my life very often, and toast is a recurring character in my lunch. Speaker A: The thing is, Jessica, when I think about jam, and this is probably exclusive to a former, a recovering fat person from the South, I think of biscuit application first and foremost.
Speaker C: I do too. Speaker A: Like, that is like, oh, you do? Speaker B: Okay. On the Bo Berry biscuit. Speaker A: Because I feel like a lot of people go to toast, you know what I mean, is where their head goes. My head goes biscuit first, even though I don't have biscuits in my life very often, and toast is a recurring character in my lunch. Speaker C: Why, why don't you have them in your life very often? Is because none are good enough? Is it just— can't stop if you start?
Speaker A: No, I used to go to this place called Flying Biscuit in Atlanta. There were several of— and, and now it's sort of— Speaker B: it's— Speaker A: it— we still go because my wife likes it too. And it's like, the biscuit is delicious, and they have like a weird apple butter which I would never get, but I like there. Speaker C: You should have our biscuits. We do it— we only do them on the weekends. Speaker A: It's kind of like a donut. I've never met a biscuit I don't like, but biscuits feel close to my culture.
It feels like part of my soul. Speaker B: Yeah, allow yourself— he allows himself, you know, 3 biscuits a year. Speaker C: I see. Speaker B: It's a good amount. Just like a donut. Speaker A: Honestly, it just doesn't come up that much. It just doesn't come up that much. But now that I know— All right. Speaker C: I see. Speaker A: Now that I know you have them. All right, I'll be back. I'm back. I'm coming back in April. I'm coming to Squirrel for dinner if you'll respond to Jason and let us get a table.
Speaker B: But I can set it up. I can set it up. Speaker C: I'll think about it. Speaker B: You're okay with sitting on the rail, right, Chris? Speaker A: Yeah, I'll sit on the curb. I'm fine. Just let me get a $12 latte while I wait, if you don't mind. What milks do you have? Thank you, Jessica, for joining us on How Long Gone. It was a pleasure. We're big fans for a long time, and, um, I'm happy that dinner is finally, finally upon us. Speaker C: Thanks, y'all.
It's been a pleasure. Speaker C: Thanks, y'all. It's been a pleasure. Speaker A: And Jason is literally— Jason's the worst critic on Earth, and I've never heard him talk this positively about something. I don't even think he likes you that much. I think he really just likes the restaurant that much. Speaker B: I ain't just saying it. Speaker A: He never just says it. That's the fucking problem with him. Um, well, thank you, Jessica. We appreciate it. Speaker C: Appreciate you both. Speaker A: All right, we'll see you soon. Have a good day.
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